Although it doesn't posses some of the traditional perils of the major professional sports, surfing is dangerous. In just a few moments, a decent wave can become an erratic catastrophe that can swallow a competitor whole. Or worse—they can fall from the wave's highest point and crash land onto the ocean.
That was the case for surfer Tom Dosland in Maui. El Niño is causing abnormally high swells, and with those come the 40-foot waves. Unfortunately, Dosland's fall came shortly thereafter.
I wonder what it feels like to fall 40 feet from an enormous wave. The fall itself probably feels endless with the anticipation of a hard crash to the water increasing after every heartbeat. Dosland wasn't seriously hurt.